Note that a mini-roller might require a few extra coats to get rid of the unsightly marks and lines they can leave.
Be sure to follow the recommended instructions for drying times between coats of paint or the earlier coats will never fully dry and will eventually come off. The paint will chip off with the slightest knock and this is particularly noticeable for tables in which the paint will come off on anything you happen to put down on them such as cups. There are a number of different types of poly- sealant, with both oil-based polyurethane and water-based polycrylic varieties.
Polyurethane sealants are perhaps better known, but as they are nearly always oil-based they tend to yellow over time.
Remember to carefully remove the dust from this sanding with a quick wipe down from a damp cloth before applying the next coat as polycrylic is completely transparent and will really show up these specks. If you found this guide useful, you might also be interested in other articles Homeli has about DIY projects for Ikea furniture.
I have a question. Is the recommended primer an oil based product? It can be topcoated with oil or water-based paints after 45 minutes in ideal conditions. I have painted kallax storage unit grey to match the grey kallax I bought but what colour do I use for the outside edges to match?
Thank you, this is a great help. Thank you in advance for any help you can give. I have Ickes wardrobe. The doors have wood border down the sides of door with off white doors. I want to white gloss them. So light sanding down,good primer,light sanding down, dry then gloss with sponge roller..
If it goes wrong I will have to get new doors.. It probably will be harder to paint than a black dresser but I really want to! Has anyone managed to paint their bed black to white? This is so helpful — thank you!
I would like to turn an Ikea laminate mirror frame into a copper colour. Quite difficult to find a metallic paint as good as Rust-Oleum. Thanks again. Is it okay if I use synthetic shellac of the Zinger bin advanced primer. Or should I get the exact one posted above. The only difference is mine is synthetic shellac.
Is eggshell paint different in the UK than North America? I saw you reference in some comments where people asked if they could use regular wall paint, and you recommended eggshell. Thanks for any tips you can provide. Perhaps there is a bit of a difference in terms across the pond. Can you please advise on where to dry the items — I cannot imagine letting to dry this outdoors due to British weather!
I am worried about stinking the whole house if I let this to dry indoors. Do you think it is ok to let it dry in the shed? While the paint is still wet, is there a risk or letting particles stick to the paint?
Thank you for this. I am wanting to paint an aneboda wardrobe its light wood coloured and wanting to paint it white would the above steps work for this? What steps should I follow if the furniture is not laminated please e. Sundvik wardrobe. Do I still need to sand and prime?
Many thanks in advance. Wonderful advice! She gave me a little paint for touch up, but not much. If I did repaint it, would I need to totally strip it, or just sand on the paint thats already there and use a primer on top of that? The color would be just a little darker purple then what I already have, so visually I think it might work.
IKEA has a round extendable table but it only comes in black or white :. In the product desctiption its says that the table top is made of: Particleboard, Beech veneer, Reinforced polypropylene, Stain, Clear acrylic lacquer. Is there anyway I can refinish this to look more natural wood or at least a more espresso colour to match the kitchen? Could you give some specifics of what type of primer I would be best to find.
Do you think the process you have described will work here, too? Or should I just hang curtains and forget about the whole thing? Hi Horst, this should work just fine. Painting IKEA furniture successfully is mainly about the preparation and primer and not the final paint.
Good luck with your Billy shelves. I do not know why people create a 5 page article for something so simple that can be explained in maybe 6 steps total. Sand surface, apply primer and lightly sand between coats, paint roller, spray or brush …there are multiple ways of doing things, this is just preference , apply a sealent of choice test a patch before applying , done!
People do not make it more complicated than it needs to be! There are multiple ways of doing things just choose one. Just go the your home improvement store, buy the supplies, and get the job done.
The fact is some people feel uncertain about projects like this and hence they look up detailed articles. This article written by one person in an hour or two has been viewed almost , times, has given people the confidence to try it, and has no doubt saved a lot of paint dept employees a lot of questions and time. Not quite sure why you decided to come here yourself if its as simple as you say.
Hi Sweety I read ur article with great interest but am abit stuck. I also use primer when painting my splid wood doors. And you can tell the difference primer makes :- I bought the Lack sideboard and Hemnes Day bed a year ago and want to paint them as they have yellowed in colour from White. Is undercoat same as primer?? Kindest Regards Liz very busy mummy lol.
Great post, thank you for sharing. Question; I purchased two side tables from Ikea. The Nornas collection- the key features says the product is untreated solid pine that can be painted. My question should I follow these exact steps? Please advise.. What a fantastic tutorial!! The Besta is of light oak color and the rustic oak gives a honey tinge.
Thank you so much for your reply Homeli. We have decided to change the furniture as it was pretty new and get some better matching one.
Thanks again :. Does the aerosol primer work also? The aerosol primer, however, is much cheaper, and can be had in g capacity. May be enough to do a hall table. Think of it as a primer for your primer. Where do you get it? The Billy Bookcases were done over two years ago now and there is not one scratch or mark on the surface even as I remove shoes, bags and various things from the shelves every single day.
The desk was done well over a year ago and despite daily use, again, the finish has held up beautifully. The other thing I would recommend especially for a piece that will get lots of wear so things like table tops or shelving is an oil-based paint. Oil-based paints are more hard-wearing than their water-based counterparts and can stand up to a lot of abuse before they start to scratch.
Will you be painting any IKEA furniture soon? If your piece is made of wood and not laminate, then sanding, priming and painting will give you a better result. Always use any spray products in a well-ventilated area. Basically, just use common sense. Have you seen these posts? Thanks for posting that one :. This is SO useful to know, thank you!! Thank you, you are such a star sharing such a great secret! Now to find something else to IKEA hack!
Cheers for sharing! I have an old dvd cabinet that I have wanted to give a mackenzie-childs makeover however never had the guts to try on laminate….. Bewdy Bottler…….. Hi Camille, it really depends on the piece and what your final topcoat will be. For the shelving unit, I used a brush for the smaller detailed areas and a roller for the shelves themselves to get a smooth finish. For the desk, we used spray paint.
I think for a more rustic finish, a brush would be fine but you may want to use it in combination with a small roller as well for a smooth finish.
Hope that helps! That was so helpful! Thank you for the detail. Thanks again! I was just wondering if you painted you kitchen cabinets yet. We never ended up doing it. I did a test run on an ikea bathroom vanity and it was so frustrating, I decoded to leave the kitchen until we can replace the cabinets. Thank you so much for sharing this tip. Looking at two Ikea pieces that need a makeover. Very excited for dryer weather to try your advice.
Thanks Kimberly, great advice. I love, love, love your blog. A fantastic mix of top practical tips for everything around the house, interspersed with styling inspiration and real life makeovers. My house is certainly looking much nicer, especially with the finer details since I found your site.
Know I also know how to prettify my ikea hacks :- Fabulous work Kimberley!!! Great tips but this stuff is highly toxic both to skin and inhalation. You MUST wear gloves and a proper respirator, not just a dust mask. Any item used for DIY will have advice warnings on the product, always read the label. DIY comes with all kinds of risks, but great savings and reward can be achieved. If someone is not happy using something then they should pay a professional to do it.
This is so helpful, thanks! I was wondering, do you use a specific kind of primer after the adhesion promoter? Should this also be oil-based? Or for a specific material? Hi Dionne, just use whatever primer works with your final coat. So if you are using an oil-based paint on top, use an oil-based primer. Hi Kimberly, thank you for this tip. I was just wondering, when you say it goes tacky, how tacky do you mean?
Concerned that the finish will not be smooth if the paint is going on to a sticky surface…. Hi Kimberly, a brilliant article and thank you for sharing! Can I please ask, would one can of the spray on adhesive promoter be enough for 1 Billy Bookcase?
Also what brand of oil base paint did you use? Trying to work out my shopping list and costings before I commit. It took three coats of paint to get perfect coverage. The best results require multiple coats and a fair amount of time.
I assumed that IKEA — the company that rivals Germany for precision engineering — would make furniture that is plumb, level, square and consistent. Perhaps these Kallaxes were plumb, level, square and consistent at one point in their past.
Perhaps the ravages of 6 years in The Navage Patch had sullied their once-perfect forms. Whatever the case may have been, the cubby that I measured was just ever so slightly bigger than most of the others, and even more slightly bigger than one other.
Learn from my misfortune. Measure in multiple places and assume nothing! To make the hinge installation easier, I marked where the hinges would be. I then pre-drilled the hinge holes and the hole for the door knob, and then I sanded all the edges and corners. During this time, I also built the backing for my Kallax makeover.
I primed and painted the smooth side. We put them in their places and then I crawled into the triangular void to attach the backing boards. Handan just loves shooting of photos while I flop around like a catfish on hot asphalt. Without the rest of the scene in frame, this pic looks a little out of context.
Like, what am I looking at? What am I thinking about?? It looks like a brown Pac-Man is trying to eat my head in one ginormous bite! After extricating myself from the triangular void, I turned my attention to the doors and door knobs. None of the doors fit their spaces without a whole lot of wood-on-laminate rubbing. Fortunately, the doors only needed their heights to be trimmed, not their widths. That did the trick, and I was able to install the doors with ease.
The hinges are simple zinc-plated utility hinges that I spray painted with Rustoleum Antique Nickel. To keep the doors from flapping around like bird wings, I installed simple magnetic catches in each cubby and a metal catch plate on each door. We no longer need to fear those smooth and sleek surfaces. And Jordan was a true friend to him. Handan had seen Pinterest pins and posts about some products that were supposed to magically heal scratches and dings in IKEA and other laminate furniture.
Our Kallaxes were in pretty bad shape, so this was of great interest to us. We discovered that wiping the marker off immediately after application helps somewhat. Those types of scratches really stood out before, because they exposed the yellow wood or wood composite beneath.
The marker merely colored the wood, making it less visible than before but not altogether invisible. The Ram-Pro came with markers and crayons. We tried the markers in the same manner that we did with the Miller.
It was a disaster. No matter what color we chose, the marker stuck out like the Pope at a biker convention. Then I scribbled it with the crayon, basically filling the deep scratch with wax. Not too bad, but certainly not magically fixed or erased. Just better than it was before.
Handan and I spent a long time trying to repair all the dents, divots and scratches in the two Kallaxes, but in the end, we gave up. But I figured I may as well share my thoughts on those products.
Other people seem to love them, so everyone has their own standard for what constitutes an acceptable piece of furniture I guess! Unfortunately, ours were just too scratched-up to be saved. Have you tried painting IKEA furniture? Have you tried painting laminate furniture? How did it go? We love it when you share our posts on Facebook and Pinterest! I painted several pieces of my Ikea furniture.
What a challenge that was! I found sanding, using krud cutter, rinsing well then painting with a homemade Gesso worked to create a good foundation to paint. In an enclosed space, a respirator is a must! Looking good. That triangular wall is odd, but you can turn it into a focal point and make the most of it as a feature.
I bet Handan can come up with some cool wall decor to make it really pop. Take the horrible part of the room and make it shine! Thank you! I enjoyed this post! My husband has this aversion to IKEA for some reason.
I still have some of their pieces around and will hang on to them. They have been re-purposed numerous times also. Thank you, Clovia! Great job, looks fresh and fabulous!! Thank you for sharing the secret!
However, I never laughed so much while reading a post as I have this one…my tears are still making it difficult to type. Greg, it looked like you were attempting a prison break in one of them. Oh my, still laughing. BTW, a great result for your above-and-beyond efforts!
0コメント